Digimon COTD

Digimon COTD: Plug-In Backup

Plug-In Backup—Keep your DP even when you evolve.

What’s good about it: Since you often have to make tough choices about what to rack, this eliminates that responsibility by taking all those cards back. Since it has “recycle any 3”, you’ll get to choose which cards are returned—including partner, Ace, DATA, Firewalls, situationally good cards, and anything the opponent trashed or sniped that you wish to keep.

What’s bad about it: Early game, you don’t have much to recycle. Requires evolving by DP and provides no discount. In fact, discounts of any kind make this hypothetically less useful since racking means needing the Backup less. On the same note, it doesn’t shine by default in decks that can evolve with 1 rack. This effect can be a low return value unless planned for properly. While rare, it can’t take anything from DP unless it’s a Digimon card.

Tips: Make sure you’re not trying to use lots of external DP-gain effects such as Monodramon, Raremon, or evo bonuses for this. If you do, you’ll lose out on a lot of its potency. This is similar to a Vending Machine that you use during evolution. If you’ve already used Super Tag or some other method of “ignore DP”, Plug-In Backup interferes heavily with this by taking everything back into hand. This card is best used a little after the early game, when you have some trash to recycle or in decks that need to rack more; OR after deliberately using a mulligan a few times to search your Ace, use it, evolve with this, then recycle the Ace. A property common to all “recycle any” cards is the ability to trash your deck on purpose of the bulk cards, then put the strongest cards back in for easy access later. Since it’s a Plug-In, it benefits from Reload Plug-In Q (Quick), which gives it another draw 1 if Q is in the Destiny Zone—even more cards!

Backup asks two opposing things of you: Ensure you can be independent with your evolution (no DP reduction necessary), and rack more than 1 cards to make best use of it. Normally, if not using your Evolution card to make the evolve itself easier, you should at least have high +P or low DP cost, to ensure fast and smooth evolution. Therefore, what Backup actually asks is that you make best use of it in decks that have trouble evolving, which will pay everything back to you. In some ways, this is more powerful than Super Tag since you can re-use all the DP for different purposes. In other ways, it’s worse—if you need to re-rack them, it’s going to take time.

If you evolve fast and regularly, Burst Growth is probably better than Backup. If you’re slow or have high trash costs and low hand (or need to maintain hand), Backup is great. The Whamon Level U support and Wargreymon or Rusttyrannomon Activate both benefit from larger hands. In those Level M cases, it’s difficult to keep the hand size large due evolution requiring resources from hand. Backup can ensure a much more potent and more reliable activation. A minor point, but using DP to evolve to Herculeskabuterimon means everything in DP is taken, you might draw 2, and that massive hand of cards is protected from discard, plus your deck is now 3 cards larger which helps enable the deck protection passive.

If you get the evo-bonus of Rosemon or Megidramon (when evolving by DP of course), an added Backup is a total of Recycle any 8! That’s a very powerful way to create the most potent deck for upcoming plays. This also heavily fuels discard costs such as an attached TOY Missile Pod and Metal Parts, where every discard counts.

Puppet Switch is a notoriously strong card but it can’t be used with Backup! Pay attention to where Plug-In Backup is restricted to only taking “Digimon DP”. Kyubimon particularly loves and hates this plugin. Love because you can switch what supports Kyubimon activates at no extra DP cost to you. Hate because you may not want to switch, but using this in the same deck will eventually force one or else face the consequences of a dead Evolution card in hand.

As we see, Plug-In Backup is best in decks that “slow rack” and can obtain all their DP from Digimon cards in that zone. It’s very specific but there are several cards that shine extra bright this way. Any Digimon with “Put this into DP.” somewhere in its effects, such as Ogremon, Armadillomon (or Armadillomon), Mushroomon, Patamon, Falcomon, Akatorimon, Angewomon, Devimon, Minotaurmon…this list could go on for a while. In the great case of PR Witchmon, she doesn’t just put herself into DP, she can also be used after you take all yours with Backup and swap DP with the opponent to give them 0 DP. Weirder, you could swap and then play backup, giving you the unprecedented ability to hold your opponent’s cards in your hand! Also any evo-bonus with “Put … into DP” (usually the top 1 Digimon of deck), example being Devidramon. So when using this card with a huge list of Digimon, there’s a lot of value that can be had for re-using those same cards over and over.

Digimon COTD: Coliseum

Coliseum—Changing both players attacks to  with various bonuses for yourself.

What’s good about it: Coliseum boosting your power is very helpful. Forcing a fight can be very necessary when you need to prevent  abilities like drain and 1st attack. Especially if you want to use your circle with impunity.

What’s bad about it: tends to be the strongest attack for the majority of digimon. the bonus effects aren’t always that helpful at letting your attack happen on your opponents turn.

Tips: Coliseum is a tricky card to pin down, its extra effect tends to seem more random than it is, if you can figure out you opponents best move generally you know what effect your going to get. it’s best to use this on your turn when your opponent is most likely to use abilities to get extra damage out or survive to evolve on their turn. In some instances, you can get 200 Power and the change, making it comparable to an Attack Chip without the threat of counter (or “to zero” effects).

Digimon COTD: Hagurumon

DB-014 Hagurumon—A Rookie fit to assist Crash.

What’s good about it: Immediately, you’re drawn to the Support ability which attaches and saves you from the perils of Crash. Since —the type Hagurumon most easily assists, has a staggering amount of Crash, it fits right in. Circle to zero helps tremendously to keep it alive on a medium-strength body. One of the rare attachments where you will be able to use the ability the turn it attaches, so you don’t waste a turn.

What’s bad about it: You shouldn’t hang out on this Active (it’s not Goblimon after all). You’re still going to lose HP, diminishing the possibilities of this card far more than it may first appear. Takes away the slot of the valuable “Miracles Crest” which lets you use your own Active’s Support (something crash-centric decks already strive for).

Tips: Well now you don’t have to run Concert Crash anymore. Pair this with other possibilities such as Chainsaw, Data Copy (for an instant kill with almost no downside), Waspmon, or add Drain when you Crash with cards like Dark Wings. Try changing your type to  after attaching, so you unlock access to more Drain. Or change to  to unlock access to powerful HP-based conditionals like Icemon.

Digimon COTD: Biyomon

DB-013 Biyomon—An evolution-primed Rookie with serious hate.

What’s good about it: The amazing ability to toolbox a Champion for direct, immediate evolution from the deck, which ignores DP since it’s outside the evolution phase. That ridiculous triple hate of  with a high 200 base power for it (this is good even for many Champions with x3 VS). +30 P is always welcome on a Rookie, especially in Wind. If you don’t manage to be R and Wind for the Support, you still get a serviceable draw 2.

What’s bad about it: Incredibly weak attacks otherwise. You need a serious back-up plan for this Digimon, if it gets stuck out there and left hanging with all those low-Power attacks and the extremely vulnerable HP. You will have to actually validate the Champion, which is locked to Wind Rookies. The x3 VS is only useful if you can actually hit with it without dying at Rookie level. You have to skip using an Evolution card that turn, which can stop you from getting pretty powerful bonuses.

Tips: There are really not a lot of downsides to this card other than the loss of tempo. The Support isn’t just good for saving DP and toolboxing, it can also set an opponent up for failure if they think they’re going to KO a Rookie but nope, actually you pulled out a Champion (especially if it has a new attack ability that predicts what they planned for!). Make sure you aren’t playing this when you could just evolve normally to a good option in hand. Alternatively, the effect is also sort-of like “Super Tag” in that you’ll get to keep DP, so you can Rack-Up, skip evolving, use this as support to set up your Champion (be sure to know what attack you want to use during the Strategy Phase) and then you’ll be set DP-wise for Ultimate. is really good x3 VS, especially if you manage to mix her into a  deck with something like Sabirdramon. That unlocks the ability to abuse the x3 VS on a much larger scale, or even make a skeleton for a “Mastemon” deck.

Digimon COTD: Miracle Ruby

Miracle Ruby—Are you ready to evolve?

What’s good about it: “M” is for “Miracle” and “Multi-use”—you can play this as a normal support to get a phoenix effect, which doesn’t let the opponent have a KO. But you can also choose to “Turbo”, which means play this Any Phase with a couple of modifications: you don’t delete it and it counts as 1 KO as normal. You get to pick based on the situation whether it’s better to give up your support for the turn or not, depending on how far ahead the opponent is in KOs, so this is never dead in hand just like other Aces.

What’s bad about it: If 1000 HP would’ve saved you a KO, Gold Mushroom is arguably better (an ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure). On that note, Mystic Seal is better if you would use Ruby for its Support-speed effect in most situations, since by virtue of not dying, Seal still allows you to attack (plus void something). Not every Ace gets deleted, so good luck finding an abusable combo for this.

Tips: Here’s the thing, you’re supposed to use the Turbo version. It doesn’t delete itself (since no KO reduction happens), can be played any time so you’re not giving up support, and has a secret hidden inside it—counting as up-to 1 KO means using this out of nowhere with Level M gives you an unvoidable way to keep it fielded, while still counting as -1 KO! Gold Mushroom, Mystic Seal, and the like aren’t borderline-unvoidable. The only way to void this card when Turbo is Clown Trick and that’s likely to just give you the card right back again, so you can still use it later; plus it’s a pretty rare situation to see. If you know they have Clown Trick, try baiting them to waste that void before they know what Ace you’re using. Since you’re not giving up that support, you can still play something devastating and offensive for battle, or just grab some delicious utility from Training Manual, especially if it fuels an Any Phase saturated deck. This is also a really weird and situational counter to Soulmon, since your opponent is only likely to use it when you’d be KOd and you can throw this in during the first step of the Battle Phase to ensure no response play from the opponent—again, it counts as -1 KO in that situation too. Don’t forget revived Digimon never count as more than 1 KO for any reason, so this permanently sets your Level M to 1 KO.

Any situation where KOs are worth more than 1, the Turbo version of Miracle Ruby is amazing. Weirdly, you can use the Turbo version very well even with the same Soulmon; since you can’t guarantee Grudge is going to work or even be your best response that turn, a Turbo Miracle Ruby will act just like the regular Support version and give up 0 KOs due to its evo-box! With a little recycle…well you know. If you use the fact that you will appear to be cornered on the turn you Turbo this card, the opponent will select a strategy accordingly, play a support accordingly, and then be completely surprised during the first step of the Battle Phase. Because of this, Miracle Ruby is paradoxically better with decks that have some way to threaten the opponent’s attacks, such as “Counter” or “to Zero”, since they still have to account for your will to live (they don’t know you’re fine dying). In any case, that most likely means they have to support in order to get the last bit necessary to KO you, without knowing what lurks in your hand. This effectively also makes Miracle Ruby a void card, since opponents will want to play power gain to get a KO, only for you to utterly negate that no matter how much they gained. Someone using Crash or Chainsaw for such a situation has doomed themselves.

But then it keeps going…if you’re not playing a deck with extreme abuse of Any Phase, large amounts of draw, or some way to get to Level M quickly, you still have the option to play this for any of your typical actives (assuming you still have a reason to put it in your deck). It’ll be deleted and therefore won’t be abusable. It won’t be nigh-unvoidable. It won’t be unilaterally better than Gold Mushroom or Mystic Seal (or any other similar), but you will still have a Digimon, it will have a good enough amount of HP to survive, and that will give you time to find some other strategy. Interestingly, it’s a weird counter for the devastating Shining Mane where any other card that gives +1000 HP can’t be, since you won’t meet the conditions for its halving. Shining Mane often causes you to seize defeat from the clutches of victory.

Ruby is definitely a card that assumes you’ll be on your back-foot at some point during the game. Weirdly, I’ve witnessed a lot of contradictory things while playing this game. Those two Aces I keep bringing up? They’re common to use at the wrong time, especially Gold Mushroom since it gives more HP than people typically use before they evolve again. They don’t signal to the player when the best moment to use them is. They’re actually too good sometimes. If you’re too flexible, you don’t have a map for when to play the card. If you can’t play Miracle Ruby until you would almost certainly be KO’d, then you can pretend to be a cornered rat and force the opponent to act accordingly, as above. Ruby tends to stay in the hand for far longer, scale to the skill level of any opponent, and vastly change the little subgame of attack selection during the strategy phase. You can even commit to the revival despite not being obvious that you’ll be KO’d, by playing it earlier in the turn and forcing the opponent to try and wiggle around it—it’s a signal that you’re going to use Crash or some other reckless play and they’re likely to waste their energy trying to stop it. Since you can just recycle it back, the Ruby isn’t even wasted. Regardless of which version you use, it’s not as simple as “X card is better”.

Why does this whole article seem like a back-footed defense of a back-foot defense card? Because both reveal new hidden truths. The Miracle is Ruby lets you evolve, or stay at your max evolution. I hope this COTD does similar.

Digimon COTD: Meatvolution

Meatvolution—A silly name but a serious healing card that recovers HP when evolving.

What’s good about it: There’s nothing more to say than free meat! HP +400 (nearly unvoidable) outside of the Support Phase is pretty ridiculous, and like most utility-evolutions, Meatvolution sets your new Digimon up for success early. In this case, you get to use that shiny new Digimon for a much longer time before being forced to evolve again. It’s more powerful than Recovery Disk, which is often played in HP Recovery decks. You also get a cost reduction of -10 DP which is nice.

What’s bad about it: As typical with utility evolutions, you’ll have to evolve from DP and have your evolution taken care of independently of the card. This is just a bonus you get for doing things the old-fashioned way. It also still costs you a card from hand (and all your DP) so watch your card advantage. If you don’t actually need the extra 400 HP, this card can be a misplay or dead in hand. If you’re planning to evolve before the 400 HP is used up, you’ve essentially wasted everything.

Tips: Make sure whatever you’re going to with this card can use the 400 extra HP. It’s especially good when you can search Meatvolution card situationally from your deck. Almost always, Level Crush will provide you with far more HP; so always ask yourself if you are heavily gunning for an HP-based strategy or just want to shore up some weaknesses in your existing Digimon. Overall, it’s not a bad pick once you have your DP/evolution squared away. In fact, this is one of the best cards for a Crash deck! DP -10 is the sweet spot for those since they often run many low-cost Level C, then try to get as much HP as possible before the inevitable crash. “But what if I have too much overkill” —You, probably. You might have overkill or just a ton of crash regardless, but that’s actually a good thing. In Game Theory terms, Crash is your “big gun” and the threat of it being used has to be taken just as seriously as it being used. Try looking up “Brinksmanship” to see how to level up your play in these situations. Let’s say for now that a gun is always in use, even when it is not being fired.

Digimon COTD: Reppamon

Reppamon—A Champion with heavy emphasis on support.

What’s good about it: The evo-box damaging ability is always welcome, as -100 HP to the opponent could result in a pre-Batttle Phase KO. You can choose to pay the Support cost or not, which makes this at the very least not bad to top-deck. Reducing the opponent’s Power to zero, especially while you get to attack, is incredibly powerful and usually better than a “Counter” if implemented correctly. The “Trash 2” Cross-ability can be used to much effectiveness when paired with other Trash abilities, making your fast -based deck capable of reducing the max number of KOs necessary to win in short order. Its evo-box branches 3 different types.

What’s bad about it: Its overall body is incredibly weak. You will be needing that evo-box bonus damage to deliver anything remotely resembling a KO, especially un-boosted. The +20P is a bit coarse in a type that tries to evolve as fast as possible. Lack of native 1st Attack on a weak body means it has trouble getting the final blow. Support is type-locked and attack-locked, on top of requiring a loss of card advantage (remember, you already -1 when you support with it).

Tips: If you plan to use the support often, try using -locked effects that swap your with Power (e.g. “Love Crest), or use Digimon with higher Triangles, or Triangle-abilities (e.g. “Kiwimon”) for maximum effectiveness. If you want to go for a trash-based strategy in Wind, make sure you protect its Cross and keep its HP up heavily with cards like “Large Disk”. Always set up the ability to evolve it to Level U ahead of time so you don’t get stuck on Reppamon and eat a KO.

Digimon COTD: Sniper Disk

Sniper Disk—Evolution that lets you “snipe” cards right out of the opponent’s deck.

What’s good about it: You get to see your opponent’s entire deck and every card that remains. This can target an Ace! It can also target Firewalls. You can hit an opponent’s Partner or Level Us to stop their plans early. If you hate being “sacked” by lucky late game draws, this fixes that problem immediately. Opponent can’t simply mulligan-spam into their best cards. You still get +20DP (up to +40P) as long as don’t mind much weaker sniping.

What’s bad about it: You have to actually evolve by DP. Gaining the extra DP bonus means you’re not using this card to stay ahead, you’re using it for damage control. Opponents can actively/passively resist this card with simple Recycle abilities, many of which are abundant and incidental. Significantly less effective later in the game and/or after Partner/Ace/Firewall cards have been played. Need to have a legitimate evolution strategy independent of this card—it’s not Digivice after all.

Tips: This one speaks for itself. Make sure you have a good evolution structure to your deck independently of Sniper Disk. The 40 DP is probably enough to always evolve (similar to Digivice), so you may be tempted to only use Sniper Disk. The problem is you will fall into a trap—Digivice lets you ignore DP, for use with the next evolution, DP-cost cards, and is effectively infinite DP. Sniper Disk would only work without additional racking when you’re willing to get a much weaker effect and/or willing to lose all your DP cards. One remedy for this problem is to use Super Tag first to protect your DP, then Sniper Disk to full effect. Always try to memorize the remaining cards in your opponent’s deck (you only get one shot). Snipe cards as mentioned above, which are Aces/Firewalls/Partners and other cards that may be problematic for you to deal with, or give the opponent fast or immediate upcoming advantage, especially if they do something reckless like spam mulligans. Try to use Evolution searchers to get this card when you need it, before all the good stuff gets played.

Digimon COTD: Death Evolution

Death Evolution—A new firewall and stops Evolutions in their tracks, and maybe an Option.

What’s good about it: It has a very rare ability: the power to be played during the Evolution Phase and void an Evolve card. On top of that, it can also stop an Option card later in the Support Phase, if you choose. If your opponent has no way to play around it, this can be a hard one-two combo that floors them.

What’s bad about it: Overall, it’s less powerful than other #00ccff;">firewalls such as “Cherrymon’s Mist”, and isn’t for every deck. You have to make the decision to Support with it during the Evolution Phase, which can give your opponent enough information to play around it. Since it can only void Options, this gives it a more limited scope and the opponent might have wanted to support with a Digimon (or not at all) anyway.

Tips: Those precious 3 Firewall slots have to be thought through carefully. What can you really use? What synergizes? What can you re-use? While it technically can be played around, let’s not underestimate the power to buy a turn by stopping an Ace from even being played. Also, if you have no Evolutions to void, you can always play this in the Support Phase regularly, which gives you flexibility. If you reveal to void an evolve, then discard it on purpose, there are ways you can re-use it later via recycle or similar.

Digimon COTD: Megidramon

Megidramon—Crazy, Passive-based, maniac Digimon.

What’s good about it: Megalogrowlmon provides via evo-bonus a huge recycle on par with Vending Machine. It has a very easy DNA, since half the requirements just have to be and Level U. The HP on this incarnation of terror is huge for its type. “Attach D”, while not incredibly ridiculous by itself compared to other Cross-abilities, is monumentally horrifying when paired with the passive “Attachment Slots +2” and “Unaffected by Shatter”, since this means you can set up 3 (non-Ace, non-Firewall) attachments from your deck in a row, with no ability to be stopped, all of which can form a complex combo. Megidramon can also change its type every turn to make best use of all the type-requiring attachment cards and evade “x3 VS” abilities the opponent may have. The cherry on top is how it slowly corrupts the opponent’s deck into oblivion over time.

What’s bad about it: Try actually setting up those 3 attachments with only its attack. I dare you. Any opponent with an ounce of fore-thought will see right through it and plan around it, possibly going for a one-hit KO with their Ace. Megidramon also has a more “balanced” spread of attack Power for its huge DP cost, so it doesn’t really stand out anywhere, including . This is a nearly pure-setup Mega and should be supported as such. Corrupting 1 every turn is very slow if you’re not also supporting with similar abilities. Changing your type away from Dragon usually makes you more vulnerable to “x3 VS” in general (opponents can play Digimon on their turn, you know) and turns off a lot of the best Dragon supports. In addition, an opponent with the rare Counter- (or “to-Zero”) is going to see your setup coming a mile away and make you eat dirt.

Tips: While it’s usually not advisable to build your supports/options around your Mega, Megidramon makes it necessary to at least coincidentally support it. Without backup, it’s just a whole lot of effort for very little payoff. If you can keep its health up, anticipate anti-Cross plays, outfox VademonLove Patch and Ghostmon plays (you do have extra slots lying around for them to use), and keep your opponent dealing with this five-alarm-fire of a Digimon, it’s incredibly rewarding. Make sure that the support for it in your deck works just as well for your Level C and Us, unless you have a dedicated speed-evolve strategy like Hyper Digivolve. See also Incubator COTD for more attach combos!

Digimon COTD: Incubator

Incubator—An Evolution that attaches a card from your deck while evolving.

What’s good about it: Incubator lets you set up your newly-evolved Digimon for a much more fruitful lifespan right out of the box. It replaces itself after you use it, with the handy draw 1. Since you’re evolving by DP to use the effect, it also stacks with the effect of Super Tag. This is easily one of the best toolbox cards in the game due Evolutions being nearly unvoidable, and this ignores types. Extremely powerful combos that would normally be forbidden are allowed due to ignoring type, and it’s incredibly consistent since the attach comes from the deck. Unlike most Evolutions, you can use this with Level M and pair it up with a combo attach. If you have any attachments, including if the opponent does, you can trash them for help evolving.

What’s bad about it: Can’t attach Aces. Can’t ignore non-type requirements such as level. This card is an Evolution that gives you no discounts unless you or the opponent already has an attachment. Useless with Purity Mask or cards like it. You can’t use it on any Digimon that is not actually evolving right then, including abnormals. You won’t get the flash effect when attaching; the one you’d get if you support with the card to attach.

Tips: Be sure to take advantage of its opponent attachment killing, or use with negative attachments like Dark Evolve or Purity Mask. Pair this with the Mastery Toy Chest for maximum use of its limits and DP cost reduction. Using several different attachments can really help Incubator shine—any of the Crests and Stardom are a good starting point. Super Tag with this lets you keep your DP with the attach. Remember, look for the words “Attach to…” for cards that don’t have a type. Not just anything can be attached, you know! Moxie and Love Crest pairs incredibly well due to the odd wording: “after playing a Future, attach…” which is before you actually evolve—therefore these cards will activate an evo-bonus which may assist with evolution (or double your evo-bonuses). With any “Slots +1” effect, Incubator sets up attach combos very quickly that are normally impossible, especially if they require different types.

An example is Gorgon + Flarelizamon to get Cross +100, Circle Grudge, and 1st Attack which can allow you to have an incredibly powerful Grudge that gets both effects (due to you attacking first with double power, plus getting hit after and KO’d for huge revival). Another is using Incubator to attach Clearagumon, then Support to attach Magic Word. With this combo, every time both attacks are different, void opponent’s Digimon support, then Static 3. Going even further, combine Slots +1 with evo-bonuses that attach like Orochimon and Chaosdukemon for instant-combos! A Level M combo that’s fairly solid is Jijimon + Purity Crest. When you don’t mulligan, you draw 2 (with no max hand size, and you may have already drawn 2 due to Prep Phase).

Digimon COTD: Gold Treasure

Gold Treasure—An Option that helps get almost any Digimon in own deck.

What’s good about it: Gold Treasure can fetch you a Digimon for evolution; DNA materials; or you can be cheeky and use it to toolbox supports. The card you search just needs to be related to your active somehow, in the evolution “network”. For example: the same-type. A Digimon with your active’s name in its evo-box is also in-network.

What’s bad about it: This card is a utility card—it helps you for the next turn, not this one. It’s not completely unrestricted like Mastertyrannomon special evo-box bonus.

Tips: Gold Treasure can let you run a wider variety of Champions and Ultimates in your deck and toolbox them for support and evolution box effects. That’s especially useful for Nature type, since they have very powerful Digimon supports that are situational; so you can just pick whatever is right for the situation. It’s also really helpful for setting up DNA evolution for Ultimates and Megas. For most decks, this might as well say “Take 1 Digimon in own deck”, since the conditions only fail to cover abusable cases. This card has nearly endless use-cases for making combos. One especially useful way to shore up its slow speed weakness is to take a Digimon with an “Any Phase” speed, such as Redotamamon.

Digimon COTD: Chip D

Chip D—pure card manipulation.

What’s good about it: Chip D lets you choose between 3 very powerful effects, or get a second one for the price of 1 discard (the same as playing 2 Chip-D at the same time). Corrupt 5 is beyond the normal limit for wrecking your opponent’s ability to draw effectively. Static 5 gives complete control over decks that love to use their trash as a second resource, or which can recycle cards like its partner, Aces, Firewalls, and other select cards. The “trash any” effect snipes the best 2 cards in the opponent’s deck for that moment, including their partner. “Chip” named cards are supported by Ace Chip.

Each of these effects can be combined in devastating ways: Trash any 2 cards, then static them so they’re effectively deleted straight from the deck. Corrupt 5 and then Static 5 to seal any possibilities not on the field already or in the opponent’s immediate hand. Trash any 2 and then corrupt 5 to remove the best possibilities from their deck and make their next mulligan garbage—effectively turning off the mulligan mechanic unless your opponent can take a huge risk (if good cards are in the top 5, it also means you eliminated more than 2 good cards). You can also use the “trash any” effect to reveal the entire contents of the opponent’s deck.

This chip is also a proxy card, so you can pair it with any partner support effect that adds another similar utility option (such as opponent discard), one with opposite-effects that benefit yourself (like recode, recycle, or draw), and arguably the best pairing—battle supports to make up for its lack of usability there. Partner Finder becomes an immensely horrifying combo in that case.

What’s bad about it: This card can’t help in the battle and tends to be used in “win-more” situations (meaning doesn’t help you when you’re behind). Without a discardable card, Chip D is far less effective for what you get. The deck sniping is virtually useless if the opponent’s best cards are already out of their deck. You can’t target their Ace or Firewalls for sniping, which are usually the targets you most desperately want to hit.

Tips: Chip D is the anti-mulligan card. Almost every time you get ahead in KOs (just after a KO), the opponent will mulligan for a partner. Sniping that partner and deleting it after (or sniping + corrupting 5) means that’s not possible, and any other mulligan may also be impossible. I would argue with the idea that Chip D is “win-more” in most situations where you appear ahead. Digimon Battle Evolution allows many comeback moments which can be devastating, but Chip D stops those. Sometimes you can lose a game because you have less KOs but a better position (such as higher level), then you KO the opponent and they mulligan for some killer card and win. This chip will stop such situations by cementing your superior current position, regardless of your KO count. Sealing the deck in more than one way and sealing the available trash gives you a lockdown on the available stuff for the opponent, which makes the game more manageable and come down to what’s in their hand. If you also have a void or two ready to go, the wake of Chip D is a completely sealed game where they must fight your Digimon without tricks. A well-placed Net Worm before this card is even more horrifying, since it means most opponent’s hand will go to 0 and then never recover. This can be a heavy advantage-maker when paired with other Corrupt effects, ultimately filtering one or both decks into oblivion. Specifically, Lucky Banquet is a huge benefactor of Chip D, since you just need to know one of the cards on the top 3 of either deck. Ace Chip lets you make a Chip-based deck that uses this card heavily for extra Power regardless of effect chosen. With Golemon, the Corrupt 5 can add Trash 5 or Boost +500 Power. If you can Corrupt 5, Trash 5, and then Static 5, it’s immensely devastating.

Digimon COTD: Beam Gun

Beam Gun—Make your Power 0 to halve your opponent’s HP.

What’s good about it: Beam Gun can turn a lop-sided fight in your favor—giving you a virtual attack that is much higher in situations where you’re behind. It’s very helpful for Crash and Counter attacks since they already have 0 Power. This also has some pretty nasty combos overall. Beam Gun is even better if you can see the opponent wants to Counter, since you’ll dump your Power to 0 while still dealing some damage; so it doesn’t only work while behind.

What’s bad about it: Halving isn’t always going to be better than a normal attack, so this card requires specific timing and doesn’t usually work well when you’re already ahead. Shining Mane is better in situations where halving + attacking would score.

Tips: Run Beam Gun with Crash Digimon, or high HP Digimon (which tend to have lower Power). Try to save Beam Gun for when your opponent gets up to Mega, since they can’t evolve to recover the HP this removes and can set you up for 2 KO points. Running other Beam-Gun-like effects such as Gazimon and Shining Mane, can really help iteratively bring down massive damage-sponges. Absolutely busted with Knightmon‘s evobonus such that its Power can’t become 0. Speaking of Knightmon (and Stardom), it heals you +500 and opponent somewhat, but that’s cut in half if followed by Beam Gun.

This is also a weirdly excellent counter to Crash, since their HP is halved before they attack you. Beam Gun is like the evil mirror version of Metal Banana, yet is an excellent counter to that bastard of a card—your power is already zero, their HP will now be quartered. This is also an incredibly punishing card if it resolves after Mega Disk, since they’ll have trashed a huge amount for very little. Any “if HP is higher” effects by the opponent will almost certainly be shut off by a first-resolving Beam Gun. Beware of Chainsaw, since it hard-counters Beam Gun to the point of absurdity by making their HP 10 after. Play with Gokumon Activate, for a ridiculously easy KO by halving their HP then reducing it by their Cross.

Digimon COTD: Super Tag

Super Tag—an Evolution card that provides +10P and save all your other DP after you evolve.

What’s good about it: Super Tag puts itself into DP, so it doesn’t take your one rack for the turn. It’s one of the few Evolution cards that work when going to Level M. Saving your DP for later has obvious evolution benefits, as well as assisting some effects. You get to keep your DP if you later use an Evolution card that requires DP like Warp Digivolve, since it doesn’t say “When evolving by DP,” just “When any of own DP would be trashed”.

What’s bad about it: This card does nothing for you if you don’t have other cards in DP (and progressively better the more you have)—”+10P” is helpful but gets you nowhere on its own. Since it has to be deleted, you have to plan carefully around the precious few times you can use it.

Tips: This card is amazing for decks that want to evolve quickly and keep evolving consistently. If you can usually make one evolution quickly but not two, Super Tag gives you the second. It also helps card effects like Rusttyrannomon, Devidramon and Weregarurumon become really powerful—since they each rely on how much DP you have to power their various effects. It can also save Kyubimon support users a lot of trouble by allowing for evolution and still protecting the support effects you put in DP. Metal Armor + Super Tag is a devastating combo that allows doubling, tripling (or more) own power and instead of trashing all that DP, you just delete the Super Tag, then evolve later anyway—consequently, this makes Metal Armors chainable: you can play one, delete the super tag (replace the tag with the top digimon of deck to maintain size via metal armor’s other effect), then play another metal armor. It protects Togemon‘s DP superiority check, so you can have Drain more often. Super Tag also protects any other card in your DP from Catastrophe and similar DP-killing effects by the opponent. It also unintuitively makes the attachable TOY-34 Missile Pod and Metal Parts better by saving your resources from going to DP, now they can be converted to Power. Playing it with the Evolution card Digivice will give you even more ways to keep your DP for later. Don’t bother trying to stack recycle effects to re-use this, since it gets deleted, but recycling can still help you get it in the first place, in case it gets trashed or discarded.